Date:	2009-08-16 18:37
Subject:	Progress...
Security:	Public
Mood:	icky

It is pretty much stand still and fidget progress cause I feel crappy and hermity, but I also feel guilty just sitting here so I am nailing down my plans for this outfit. I know that my pants will be the dark teal wool lined with black linen. I know that my knee length hose will have one in yellow linen and one in red linen. The doublet body will be black wool, probably lined in yellow linen though I am kind of stumped. There is little evidence for doublets having slashed backs unless the wams, pants/shorts, and sleeves all match in slashing and colour patterns like these guys.

So if I have a short doublet with different sleeves do you think some minor slashing on the body could be possible like the second guy from the right even if it doesn't match any other part?

( Some plans and ideas to banter about... )
As for the codpiece I am not having a honking huge one, or go without, I am probably going to have a nice shaped flap type cod like the guy in the blue. I don't have anything to compensate for ;)

Date:	2009-08-04 22:37
Subject:	Tellerbarret...
Security:	Public
Mood:	creative

Figured I would start out with something easy for my new outfit. Only done a small bit of hat making. This is new to me. From all the photos I have looked at there are very few images of flat tellerbarret, they usually seem to have multi paneled brims. Not that good yet, so I will go with what I can manage for now. :)
( Gratuitous photos of my progress... )

This was from the leftover piece of linen I had after I cut the ties. It screamed to be made into a coif. So I pinned a basic head shape for basting and testing.
( Pictures under cut to save space )

Date:	2009-06-23 21:28
Subject:	St. Brigitta's Coif...
Security:	Public
Mood:	amused

Gebus like I needed a new project right now.
So mirth_matter got me interested in the St. Brigitta coif. It just so happens that the way I had to cut out my chemise left just enough linen scraps to do one. So I am fussing with the pattern at the moment. I crossed this pattern with this pattern, mostly because I didn't really like the way either of them hung.

The conjecture is that the original looks like these types of coifs. That image is from the article here. This is a good article, with good information and a plausible reproduction. It also has links to a variety of other reproductions and good info.

I am taking pictures to document the process. We shall see how it turns out. I also have the chemise to sew, and silk threads all warped up for cardweaving on the edge of my sleeves. Sigh!

Date:	2009-04-23 12:41
Subject:	GFD revamp...
Security:	Public
Mood:	amused

Haven't posted in a while, my apologies... :)

So I need to find a way to make my GFDs (gothic fitted dress) be a little more flexible as my weight and posture vary more than they used to.

What I had been doing up until now was making a full lining (with or without sleeves) and a full outer layer and attaching them for my support layer garment. This is a lot of linen (=$$). And with the whole thing fitting very tightly it was rather constricting and uncomfortable in the heat. Never mind wearing another garment over top to have the necessary layering for my chosen time.

I have always liked how modular and expandable my flemish stuff is. Kirtle can be laced looser or tighter to accommodate my weight and my over-gown could be looser or tighter and nothing showed inappropriately.

So in an effort to save a bit of money, wear the correct amount of layers, have the appropriate silhouette, and accommodate my wonkey self I am going to try splitting my layers a bit. My support layer is going to be a sleeveless or short sleeved laced gown of linen that can be worn gaping or not depending on my body. Under that will be my chemise of linen. Over it all will go a more skimming gown of linen or wool with long sleeves, lined or unlined, that doesn't provide my support. Some days it will be a bit tighter, some days it will be a bit looser. Go with the flow.

This should halve the amount of cash I spend on an outfit. I was buying 5 - 7 meters of linen @ $10/m just for my support layer, and another 5 - 7 meters of linen and/or wool @ $10/m for my fully lined outer layer. $150 per medieval outfit is a bit spendy when you don't even spend a quarter of that per month on clothing for everyday use. And it is worse when you are always having to make a new one because you bloat or schlump. Bah.

So I have the base for the fitted bodice ready for basting and much fitting and tweaking tonight while my apprenti are around. This will be great. I should be ready to cut and sew a proper garment by the weekend! Yeay!

Date:	2009-02-02 20:35
Subject:	Arming doublet...
Security:	Public
Mood:	frustrated

Also, I have given up on the red satin arming doublet for now. There are major fitting issues. I have done so much work and have to trash about half of it. I haven't made anything 16th c for about 10 years. Go figure. Will start all over again from a proper body block. Can't fight without one so I will end up getting back to it. Eventually.

I have decided to knit and full and line a late period hat. Tall with a small brim.
I am using Lett-Lopi in Charcoal with my new double pointed wooden needles. I had knit a swatch last night that was 15 stitches long which measured 3" by 1.5" before fulling. After fulling it was 2.5" by 1.25". So I calculated my head measurement at 22". So I needed 148 stitches, which makes 37 stitches per needle. I hope ;)

I have cast on and am knitting away. No pattern. No fancy stitches. Just knitting until it is mostly tall enough. Then I need to learn how to decrease. Then I will need to make the brim separately and attach it after. Of course that is just a guess as I really don't know what I am doing as of yet.

Go freestyle knitting...

Date:	2009-01-18 15:21
Subject:	Doublet part one....
Security:	Public
Mood:	creative

This is the look I am going for. Painted by Paolo Veronese. c 1560.

Painted by Paolo Veronese. c 1560.

( The drafting, and the cutting... )

Crossposted to my daily journal vanagnessayem.

Date:	2009-01-17 14:49
Subject:	First project this year...
Security:	Public
Mood:	creative

Fighting gear. To be worn under armor. Proper clothing for the purpose of fighting. So to that end I need a shirt, padded doublet, and pants of some sort. Plus the accessories.

Flipping through Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion, there was a variety of doublets. Looking on the net there are not many examples of arming coats, padded doublets, gambesons, etc. So I am making one that works for me from existing documentable stuff in the PoF. Main body and sleeves and waistline/band are from #8 Padded doublet. There is some indication that it would have been worn under armor. And it would provide the necessary protection of your body from armor with the slight padding. One thing it doesn't have that I feel I would need is a collar for under a gorget. So the collar from item #3 which is the doublet of Cosimo de' Medici added on. And the decorative detail along the front of that doublet as well. Just cause it is cute.

Both doublets are of red satin lined with linen. Lucky me I have some red satin. Not silk satin sadly but it will have to do. I also have the linen and the cotton bombast for the padding. I might need silk thread for the button holes and the stitching that shows. I can get that at Fabricland. Going to make the buttons as well. Cardboard covered in silk and embroidered in silk thread.

After the doublet I am going to make the venetian pants from PoF. Drafted to the same proportions as the original only small enough to fit me. I am choosing these as the large trunk-hose will just get torn and abused far to fast.

Aiming to look rather like this young man.

I will even make the silly hat, cause it is waaaay to cute.

I have drawn and drafted up my pattern for the doublet. I have cut out all my layers. I have taken photos. Next post will have the photos with progress.

Date:	2008-09-17 08:27
Subject:	UFO 2...
Security:	Public
Mood:	awake

This is an aumonier that I had started 8 or 9 years ago. I was so proud of it. The photos do it no justice at all. As you can see the embroidery gets better from left to right. The first side is not finished as the gold still needs to be stitched down. The second side didn't even get half that far. It is regular embroidery floss on linen evenweave. The images are from the Manesse Codex. You can click on the image to see it life sized if you want to gorey details...



This is a testament to how I learned to not critique unless specifically asked for explicit feedback. I was so happy with it and so excited to show it off. I showed it to a friend whom I though was far more advanced than me seeking approval. Her first words were that it was a shame I didn't do it in silk, she was sure I would make another later. Crushed I was. I put it away and didn't work on it again. Some would call it a grudge, some would call it silly. I just couldn't do it any longer. I knew it should be silk threads with dyes of madder, weld, woad etc, on linen, with real wrapped gold. I was a student in college. I was working with what I had. I am sure she didn't mean to be hurtful but it still burned. So now I just have to figure out what to do with it. Or I could keep it around to remind me of what happens when we speak without thinking...

Date:	2008-09-15 12:24
Subject:	UFO 1...
Security:	Public
Mood:	amused

This is a collar that I started about 7 years ago. It has remained just less than half done since that time as I no longer did Elizabethan. I keep running across it and it is a shame to leave it like that. I feel as though I should pick it up and finish it, then give it away. I have always liked pomegranites.



I got the pattern from the Blackwork Embroidery Archives.

Date:	2008-08-27 06:50
Subject:	Chirka again...
Security:	Public
Mood:	geeky

This is the pattern I roughed out. It is two layers of the same fabric. It would have taken under a meter of the fabric if I only did one layer. It sewed together in about 2 hours. Now I just have to do the closures. I think it might be pretty tight in the ribcage, but that is the support point for me anyways.
( Pattern photo )

Date:	2008-08-24 10:06
Subject:	A new chirka for Nessayem...
Security:	Public
Mood:	cold

There are not that many images to go off of on what a chirka looks like. I am going to use two images from the British Library as an example. I am still pretty convinced that this layer was the one that supported the bust. Only my interpretation I know. I know I can support myself with only two thin layers of linen so that is what I am going to use.
( Images below... )
Crossposting to my daily journal vanagnessayem

Date:	2008-08-12 00:38
Subject:	Turkish pattern development...
Security:	Public
Mood:	tired

Some more information about how I came up with that particular pattern on my own. Pure conjecture of course.
Two examples really. I have looked at a bunch more but these ones stand out in my head atm to make my point.
( Images and info below... )
I hope that helps answer a couple of questions in any case...

Date:	2008-08-11 15:03
Subject:	Turkish coat pattern...
Security:	Public
Mood:	happy

I finally got my butt in gear and sat down and drew up my pattern for my turkish coat. Entari, yelek, caftan, how ever you like to call it. (I call it entari)
( Images under the cut )

Date:	2008-06-30 11:52
Subject:	Not a secret...
Security:	Public
Mood:	accomplished

Ok the secret project was from an idea born during a chat with another laurel or two and the Prince and Princess. I had just made and presented the Tir Righ silk war banner and everyone seemed really happy with it. Then came the talk about how cool it would help make the An Tir encampment look and how banners pack really small and how displays of heraldry really spiff up a camp. Tir Righ/Avacal war seemed like the perfect timing to present a banner to Avacal so I hustled my butt out and made one just in time!

Yes I know silk painting and silk banners like this are technically not medieval but they are very SCA and a good and pretty part of the SCA. So if you would like to look at images check ( under here... )

Crossposted to my daily journal vanagnessayem

Here is the original scroll I painted for a Silver Pillar. It was presented to my apprentice at Avacal/Tir Righ war this past saturday by Princess Safiye and Prince Savaric! :)

Date:	2008-06-26 20:06
Subject:	Art in general...
Security:	Public
Mood:	artistic

I think the moment I get a paid flickr account I am going to collect images of the art I have created from preschool, elementary school, high school, and college. Just the variety must be bizarre.
I remember doing some awesome drawings in high school.

I finally got some photos of the various layers of my Turkish ensemble.
( Many photos ensue... )
Top it all off with a small velvet hat that has a strip of silk tied around it, some little leather slippers, and a bunch of different sash belts and I am set to go!

X-Posted to my daily journal vanagnessayem

Date:	2008-06-02 20:16
Subject:	So happy...
Security:	Public
Mood:	accomplished

Even better is I finished that bloody l'etoile that was giving me so many headaches! Yeay!!!!!!!!!!! Now it is all down to the copying etc and I am going to paint all weekend at Ragnaroc...It will be great I know it. :)

( Lookie below )

Crossposted to my everyday type journal vanagnessayem