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Agnes

Turkish ensemble...

I finally got some photos of the various layers of my Turkish ensemble.


If you want more detail you can click on the photos to go to my flickr and look at the larger size image.

This one shows my pants. They are cut from a medium stiff smooth silk sari that has metal threads in a white gold colour woven in. They are fairly light pants though insulative enough for both cool and hot weather. I used the pattern on Mistress Laurellin's website. I don't think I needed to make the crotch gore that large though so the next pair will be better and more authentically patterned for proper Turkish. They do have pockets though :)

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I feel so naked in my underwears...
This is the gomlek. It is made of a looseweave linen so it is fairly light and drapey. Like a thick cheesecloth. It is cut with the square underarm gussets with the side gussets gathered in like extant
Persian one on Uratim's site but with flared sleeves rather than tapered ones.

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Next is my chirka. This is the supportive layer. It is lined in a fairly heavy linen and the outer fabric is fairly stiff. This is not an outer layer for public wandering, at least one entari must go over it. There is nothing in the way of exant bits for this. I had to work it out on my own and a few images from the time.

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Next comes an entari. This is worn over all that comes before. It is black linen lined in a nice silk. Fits very tight under the bust. Based on a couple of period examples and images. It is very rectangular and triangular. Not much in the way of curves in the cutting. I will be doing a pattern layout for this soon. This one also has a pair of button in sleeves that work really well and are painfully easy to make. I need to get a photo of that still.

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And the final layer. Cotton lined in much thinner cotton. I need to redo the braid loops down the front. Using soutache doesn't work, it is starting to fall apart. I wish I could get better detailed images of the extant ones...
This coat can do up all the way to the neck over the bosom, but why wear it that way ;)

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Top it all off with a small velvet hat that has a strip of silk tied around it, some little leather slippers, and a bunch of different sash belts and I am set to go!

X-Posted to my daily journal vanagnessayem

Comments

(Anonymous)

Construction Questions

Hello there!

I too have a turkish persona and this winter is my "get my garb under control" winter. I want to revamp and improve all of my garb, add detail to some and turn "cheater entari's" into chirka's. Cheater Entari's are the lite version so I don't die in the heat of Pennsic! hehe.

Do you line the back of your entari's as well. I think I want to end up with two complete and correct ensembles (Court worthy) then make the rest of my garb more period than it is by way of detail and still cooler wearing for Pennsic.

Your work is beautiful! I have been on a fabric store quest the last two weeks as I have it in my mind to get started.
The braids on the robes at the exhibit at the sackler gallery sometime over the last few years looked fingerloop braided in that they had paired ends and were more tightly worked at one end. I can't find my notes, but I'm pretty sure it was 14 ends, so a broad 7-loop braid. Most of the examples there were 2 colors and there were definitely small mistakes in the braiding. I also can't remember if the exhibit catalog had good close-ups, but one of the sections of the online exhibit has some detail of the braids and buttons.
Thank you for the ideas and the link :)
Agnes... I haven't been inspired to create garb for a while... I think this will be my next project! It's beautiful (I hope you don't mind me stocking your page!!!)....

Quick question.... did all 2 of the over-coat thingy's follow the same pattern???
I mean 3!!! wow... Can you tell it's friday, and I want outta here!?!?!
Hello, I got here from another LJ...this outfit is fantastic!

I suffer badly from the heat in summer...and have looked for something I could wear that would keep me from falling over, and this looks cooler than what I have been wearing of late..

Would you recommend this for summer wear?
Thank you!
indeed I would recommend it for summer wear! layers means more flexibility for changing temps.
With you permission I would like to use your photos as examples. =)
examples for what?
beautiful work!
thanks :)
This is really beautiful and looks just like the paintings. Thank you for posting so I can improve my own garb!
thank you :) Glad to promote more Turkish!
I'm a very visual person, and it's greatly helpful to see a layout like this for all the layers!
I have seen paintings of ottoman women wearing just their gomlek and chirka while outdoors holding a fan. May I ask how it is that you know they didn't wear this outside? was it artistic license?
I don't KNOW anything really as I didn't exist in this time period. I don't pretend to be an authority at all on what 16th century Ottoman turkish women wore. I only look at images and compare them to what extant pieces have made it through the years. All my stuff is conjecture.

Take the paintings of women in chirka and gomlek with a fan outdoors in context. Who were they painted for? Were the women in the images painted in the middle of a city full of strangers? Were they painted in their own private garden? Were they painted for family or friends?

I haven't yet seen an image of chirka and gomlek without entari that includes other people, ie: as social wear. The images might be enticing images for lovers or potential admirers. The images could be part of a story or fable. There is very little written about the morality and mores of 16th century Turkish culture that isn't twisted by western writers. You don't see a proper 16th century middle class women in England walking around in their bodies and chemise without a dress over it. Meh. Take it or leave it. It is up to you. Myself, I don't like walking around in what I consider to be my "underwear".
Pretty! This makes me want to sew more...
you would look awesome in turkish ;)
why not?
:)

(Anonymous)

An inspiration

I love this page. I would love to see some documentation if you have it. I just made my first entari from a pattern a friend made for me. I didn't realize I needed another fitted layer underneath. Do you have more pages (this is the only one that came up when I searched for "entari" under images. Sorry, I don't have a LJ account.

Re: An inspiration

You don't NEED another fitted layer unless the clothing you are wearing doesn't represent what you need it to represent.
Personally I refuse to wear a bra under my sca clothing. They aren't medieval. I look for period feasible ways to support my breasts.
If you want to look at other turkish posts of mine, just click on the entry tag: turkish at the top of this journal entry.
:)
This is amazing. I want to make this for my decidedly less historical group and knock their socks off. If only I could sew!
And so I've started! My friend and I worked on the chirka! It turned out fantastic. Since we're less historical, it's what we wore out, but I think the entari is next.

My friend, after finishing up stated she was done with non-historical sewing if it was all this easy. Thank you for providing the patterns and guides.

Chirka pattern and Layers

I just had a question about you chirka. I found your chirka pattern on your flicker stream and the pattern doesn't have sleeves. So was this a final redraft of your pattern or do you still prefer the sleeve to be there.

Also, I'm still a novice at sewing and I was wondering if you had to make any adjustments to the measurements to compensate for the layers, such as making the top layers slightly bigger to fit around everything else you were wearing.

Thanks for your help and your awesome research!!

Re: Chirka pattern and Layers

:)
I like it better without sleeves, though there is evidence of both. I don't like so many layers on my arms.
I don't make them bigger or smaller, they are all the same size, it works well if your fabrics aren't really thick.
Sorry it took me so long to answer...