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Nessayem

Compiled Turkish post.

Turkish Outfit

(I am putting this all together in one post so it can be a complete "article". Please do not use my patterns on your site or in your handouts. You can copy this whole thing and credit me as would be conciderate or link to my images and post. I don't mind that at all.)


Inspiration

This first image gives a good idea of what the pants shape should look like, full at the hips, and narrow at the ankles. The gomlek is also very long and sheer with wide sleeves and decorated seams. This blue chirka is about half as long as the distance between her shoulders and her feet. It flares very little around the hips. It is open under the sash belt. It looks like it has buttons all the way up to the small round neckline (can't see for sure) but is only closed from bust to belt. The armholes are fairly deep but straight, not shaped. I can't see if it is lined. Not enough dpi to see the closures or detail in fabric.

2709,f.5v

The second image shows no seam decoration on the gomlek, a different hat, and a similar shape of pantleg. The red chirka is about half as long as the distance between her shoulders and her feet. It flares around the hips. It buttons from under the bust to the sash belt and is opened below the belt. I can't see any indications of buttons above the bust. It has a small round neckline. The armholes look higher than the blue one by a bit and they look straight, not shaped. I can't see if there is a lining. Not enough dpi to see the details in closures or fabrics.

2709,f.7v

There are not that many images to go by on what a chirka looks like. I used these two images from the British Library as an example. I am still pretty convinced that this layer provides bust support. This is my interpretation of what I see. It is of course stylized to the artist’s preference. May or may not have been the same artist though they were both in the same album. It isn't a photograph. I still haven't seen any physical examples. All this is my interpretation.

For the entari I like this image. I think it is a good example of what I am trying to make. It is from the British Library Images Online. They say it is 1600 Ottoman. The neckline is a small circle and it is worn open to just under the bust though the buttons seem to continue up to the neckline and stop under the sash belt. The sleeves are elbow length and wide. The body fits snugly while the hem is wider. You can see the gomlek peaking at the hem and the green bit could be lining of the entari, or another long entari poking out.

b86d

A good physical extant example is this blue entari that is believed to have belonged to a female from late 16 early 17th c. These two images of it come from this article on Dar Anahita. The same entari hanging vs. displayed flat. Same weird gore shape on the sides, fitted in the body, bell shaped hemline with a small gore on the front, buttoned down the front to just below the belt line. You can see how when it hangs the odd side gore shape just adds volume to the hips, which if you check out the images from in period artists, that is what is stylized and accentuated.
hanging displayed flat

A good drawn out example is a male caftan examined, drawn, and reported by Janet Arnold. This article shows the construction for a male caftan that displays a lot of similarities in the shapes of the pieces. It also shows how the sides of the body pieces were cut in to fit. It seems like a different silhouette, but the construction information helped me figure out how this pattern could work for me.

It has been suggested the blue entari with silver dots and the one in the Janet Arnold article could well be the same garment. So whether it is a male or female garment is in question, these images are what I used to conjecture a pattern for myself.



Patterns

Gomlek and shalvar pattern
Here is the layout for my gomlek (shirt) and shalvar (pants) with a small hat taking up the last corner.

shalvargomlek

Each graph square is 5 inches. I really simplified the pants. And I wouldn’t think of the pants as a period pattern. I just winged it to get the right shape that I wanted.


Chirka pattern
This is the pattern I roughed out. It is two layers of the same fabric. It would have taken under a meter of the fabric if I only did one layer. This is my support layer, so it fits really tightly around the point where a bra band would sit. It sewed together in about 2 hours.

Chirka

Entari pattern
This is my pattern. It can fit really well for a variety of sizes, I take enough in under the arms to make it supportive and fit narrow in the body.

Entari pattern



Outfit

Here are some photos of the various layers of my Turkish ensemble.

The first photo shows my pants. They are cut from a medium stiff smooth silk sari that has metal threads in a white gold colour woven in. They are fairly light pants though insulative enough for both cool and hot weather. I used the pattern on Mistress Laurellin's website. I don't think I needed to make the crotch gore that large though so the next pair will be better and more authentically patterned for proper Turkish. They do have pockets though.

DSCF0049

I feel so naked in my underwears...
This is the gomlek or shirt. It is made of a looseweave linen so it is fairly light and doesn’t cling at all. It feels like a thick cheesecloth. It is cut with the square underarm gussets with the side gussets gathered in like extant
Persian one on Uratim's old site, but with flared sleeves rather than tapered ones.

DSCF0053

Next is my chirka. This is the supportive layer. It is lined in fairly heavy linen and the outer fabric is fairly stiff. This is not an outer layer; at least one entari/coat must go over it. I have made a new one from the above pattern without sleeves and self lined linen. Need a photo of it. I don’t wear this one at all after making my new red one.

DSCF0054

Next is an outer layer, entari. This is worn over all that comes before. It is black linen lined in a nice silk. This entari fits very tight under the bust. It is based on a couple of period examples and images seen above. It is very rectangular and triangular. Not much in the way of curves in the cutting. This one also has a pair of button in sleeves that work really well and are painfully easy to make. I need to get a photo of those still.

DSCF0056

And this is my final outer layer entari. Cotton lined in thin fine cotton. I need to redo the braid loops down the front. Using soutache doesn't work; it is starting to fall apart. I wish I could get better detailed images of the extant ones. This coat is loose enough to be done up all the way to the neck over the bosom.


DSCF0061

Top it all off with a small velvet hat that has a strip of silk tied around it, some little leather slippers, and a bunch of different sash belts and I am set to go!

Comments

Quite a few of the images come up as a flicker place holder saying the image is not available
Yeah I have to go back and unlock them in flickr. Plus the post isn't formatting right for some reason and I wonder if it is because of this computer at work...
How do you think the seams were decorated on the gomlek?